An Italian Adventure — During A Pandemic

My latest sojourn to Florence, Tuscany, in October of 2021 was minimally challenging as the first thing to not overlook is that you need to be cleared of having Covid-19. With my negative test and vaccination card, I went to check in and get my boarding pass. I had forgotten that I also needed a “Green Pass,” also known as a digital PLF (Passenger Locator Form) that creates a barcode for you to be scanned in many European destinations. At check-in, the airline created it for me and I was good to go!

Venice, Italy, is one of the most romantic cities I’ve ever visited, but if it’s sublime coffee and an overdose of art that you’re after, Florence is your epicenter. My obsession with coffee — as a Turk this is a lifeline — annoys many. Upon unpacking, my first job was to find the best coffeeshop. After a few very decent haunts, I found it! In the Piazza di San Lorenzo and under the watchful eye of the Florence Duomo, also known as Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral dome, is Café Agorá. Like most of the eateries of Florence, it’s not much to look at. I was expecting brown water with token froth like the first two I tried, but it was so good that I began ordering two at a time, and by the end of our trip, three at a time (the cups were a bit small and I am accustomed to Venti sizing). Our regular waitress was confused at first but she eventually understood my methodology that I would basically inhale the first then savor the next two. This is bar-none, the best coffee in Florence, period.

The heart of this glorious city is the Santa Maria del Fiore, which is a piece of emblematic architecture from the late 13th century that took 200 years to build. It features emerald and pink marble slabs, that look like an optical illusion at first, while the interiors showcase historic artworks. The Duomo includes frescoes of Giorgio Vasari’s Last Judgement, scenes of Florence by Dante among many. The iconic dome itself was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi.

The elephant in the room as soon as you begin your Florence adventure is the sheer impact of the Medici family and how they empowered artists, catapulting the Renaissance for all to see and love. To this day, almost every street is lined with artists in booths selling miniature paintings and drawings of landscapes, figures and portraits. Art is everywhere and it takes your breath away.

Under the watchful eye of the Duomo, I wandered the sienna-colored buildings, narrow alleys towards the Accademia Gallery with our tour guide, Guido. He explained so much of the history of the Medici impact on the city and world that even as an art history student in my youth, I still learned so much. For example, Michelangelo was an eight year old child sculpting in a class when he was “discovered” by painter Domenico Ghirlandaio for whom he apprenticed for.

Hundreds of classical busts of great Italians, thousands of paintings we came to an alley where I glimpsed … him. Yes, Michelangelo’s David. I thought it would be like when I saw the Mona Lisa in Paris many moons ago which was anti-climactic because of all the American tourists who would not stop talking and reading aloud their guide book about the painting that it was impossible to really take her in.

The David is much larger than I expected, and towered under the dome’s skylight. The natural light accentuated his every muscle, vein and strand of hair. Every tourist there was nearly silent and in awe. Guido whispered, explaining that Michelangelo carved it from a discarded low-quality block of marble. The masterpiece was then moved to the Accademia Gallery after a vote of notables, including Leonardo Da Vinci, wanted it to be admired properly. To this day, the moment David came into view was so powerful and seared into my psyche.

The next museum of note is the Uffuzi Gallery which was completed in 1580. This massive structure houses works by Giotto, Botticelli, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello, Michelangelo and Caravaggio, to name a few. It’s a whirlwind to explore but the awe comes into play when one finally finds themselves standing in front of Botticelli’s, “The Birth Of Venus.” Again, paralyzed by the beauty of the work, I stood and took it in.

Dedicated to Medieval and Renaissance art, the Museo Nazionale del Bargello is located in the Palazzo del Podestà. It was established by royal decree in 1865 and is considered Italy’s first national museum. It is such a peaceful space, with a large courtyard lined by stunning sculptures and a staircase that looks like it was built for a movie set.

There are so many museums and galleries in Florence that it’s literally impossible to visit them all in a one week period. However if you want to visit just one, and you aren’t obsessed with seeing the David, then the one to explore would be the Pitti Palace. According to its website:

“Purchased in 1550, the Palace was chosen by Cosimo I de’ Medici and his wife Eleanor of Toledo as the new Grand Ducal residence, and it soon became the new symbol of the Medici’s power over Tuscany. It also housed the Court of other two dynasties: the House of Habsburg-Lorraine (which succeeded the Medici from 1737) and the Kings of Italy from the House of Savoy, who inhabited it from 1865. Nonetheless the palace still bears the name of its first owner, the Florentine banker Luca Pitti that in the mid-1400s started its construction at the foot of the Boboli hill beyond the Arno River.”

The imposing structure was basically the home of the Medicis. This part of the adventure is not for the occasional art lover. It’s an overload of Renaissance and Medieval art floor to ceiling. Not an inch is spared and – unfortunately, for me – by the time it was over, the works blended into one another. One needs a full week just to go through this museum and I simply cannot imagine how humans walked the rooms like they weren’t surrounded by intense genius daily. Even a Duke’s secretary’s room was top to bottom lined with Renaissance masterpieces. Today the Pitti Palace houses the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery, royal apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Costume and Fashion. It’s massive.

Florence is part of Tuscany, thus the buildings are painted in the beautiful saffron color. But it isn’t without its own character apart from its nemesis, Sienna. Florence’s architecture certainly evokes the Medici touch, with its ornamental elegance. There are shrined random Madonna’s dotted all over town. The doors of every single building was refined or charming. Even the graffiti was eye-catching.

Restaurants were unfortunately average so I won’t drop any names. We tried Italian, Indian, and brasseries. None were outstanding or memorable. The only thing cuisine-wise to say is that as someone with gluten intolerance (immediate stomach ache and nausea), there is no effect on me when I eat gluten in Italy. So whenever I am in Italy, I go crazy eating bread, pasta and pizza. Europe has banned several pesticides that are harmful to human consumption and the United States doesn’t and so I never have gluten-related issues anywhere in Italy.

The one thing I wish the East End could have is a more robust café culture. There is no shortage of coffee shops in Florence and they almost always have a charming exterior with beautiful signage, albeit, they’re obviously put together without any interior design consideration. Florence is a true caffeine hub.

I miss the charming population as much as the art. “Buongiorno!” every morning from our barista. “Buonosera!” every evening from anyone we happened upon as the sun began to set. Elevate your trip, or hop the piazzas with your backpack. One of our favorite things to do was to stroll along the Arno River or drive the Tuscan outskirts. A piece of this city stays with you.

Don’t forget to schedule your Covid-19 test, which almost all hotels can arrange for you with their local clinic. It only took fifteen minutes and I had documentation to return to the United States. Glaring at my certificate that I was Covid-free, I sadly realized I was going home soon. Whether it’s the art, the people, the coffeeshops or simply the European vibe, Florence has something for every traveller who is looking for a meaningful journey.

Ty Wenzel

Co-Publisher & Contributor

Ty Wenzel started her career as a fashion coordinator for Bloomingdale’s followed by fashion editor for Cosmopolitan Magazine. She was also a writer for countless publications, including having published a memoir and written features for The New York Times. She is an award-winning writer and designer who covers lifestyle, real estate, architecture and interiors for James Lane Post. Wenzel is also a co-founder of the meditation app for kids, DreamyKid, and the social media agency, TWM Hamptons Social Media.