Hamburger Heaven — Burgers In The Hamptons, A Culinary Art Form

For foodies, one of the strange ironies of living in the Hamptons is that it is not nearly as easy to find great seafood as one might expect. In a region that boasts both bay and ocean access, as well as major fishing ports, one must still weed out the frozen from the fresh.

So with what does the Hamptons’ culinary world excel?

The hamburger. Crazy but true.

Not that it’s anything to sneer at. The hamburger has become a big deal. In fact, both chefs and food writers can get pretty mushy talking about the hamburger, referring to it as “a part of our national identity,” and the “quintessential American meal.” There is a show on the Travel channel solely dedicated to it –- “Burger Land” stands at 13 episodes and counting. Blogs and YouTube videos argue the proper cooking methods –- grill vs. griddle –- and the proper meat blends –- chuck, brisket, short ribs, waygu, etc.

It is indeed a culinary art form. It’s just strange that it’s ours.

But I would contend that it is. Armed with an N95 and a fistful of Lipitor, I recently sampled the burgers of more than ten Hamptons restaurants. I can state unequivocally that Long Island is a kind of hamburger heaven.

Below is my list of top three burgers I’ve tried in the Hamptons.

Topping Rose, Bridgehampton

Moving through the Covid imaging system at the entrance, you may feel like you’re in one of Arnold Schwarznegger’s 1990 sci-fi films. Once inside you can order what is the priciest — but also best — burger in the Hamptons. Or just about anywhere. Made with grass-fed short-rib meat, the Topping Rose burger is a three-napkin affair –- watch out for the juices running down your hand. The side of onion jus, which can turn this burger into a kind of French dip, seems almost superfluous. Topped with Gruyere cheese and served with French fries. $26

Photo courtesy Argento

Argento, Southampton

Made with 28-day dry-aged primer steak, the meat has a deeply rich, almost buttery flavor. It’s served on homemade brioche bun with provolone cheese, arugula, and a tangy harissa remoulode. Available only during the day, this burger is best enjoyed under a heat lamp and a glass of red wine at what is one of the Hamptons’ loveliest sidewalk dining experiences. $23

Cittanuova, East Hampton

Using “1946-blend” dry-aged steak made specially for the restaurant, Citta’s burger is a word-of-mouth favorite around East Hampton. It’s served on a house-baked onion poppy-seed bun, with french fries and a house-made garlic dill pickle. It’s your choice of cheese and condiments, but go easy. With meat this good you’ll hardly need it. $19

Honorable Mentions: Rowdy Hall; The Palm; LT Burger; 1770 House

*For those that don’t eat meat, the Impossible Burger at Rowdy Hall is a remarkably satisfying facsimile of the real thing. Completely vegetarian, it’s served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and choice of cheese. $19

Kurt Wenzel

Kurt Wenzel is a former New York Times restaurant critic and the author of three novels, including Lit Life.

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