The only thing that is hotter gossip than real estate at a Hamptons dinner party is restaurants. So, it was with great pleasure on Authors Night, which benefits the East Hampton Library, that many of us gathered at a lovely home in East Hampton and were treated to an al fresco dinner, drinks, and a guest of honor, Michael Cecchi-Azzolina, to tell us about his new book, “Your Table Is Ready: Tales of a New York City Maître D’.”
In its 20th year, the literary fundraiser has over 100 authors signing books under the tent, but one of the distinct pleasures is a ticket for an intimate dinner party in a gracious host’s home where you get to sit down with a favorite author.
Cecchi-Azzolina has spent 30-plus years working with the best in the restaurant industry: Larry Forgione, Charlie Palmer, David Burke, Rick Moonen, Buzzy O’Keeffe, the Raoul brothers, Keith and Brian McNally, and Thomas Keller. And now he comes full circle with his own restaurant, Cecchi’s in the West Village, a modern take on the classic New York bar and grill.
Cecchi-Azzolina writes, “The industry is composed of misfits and losers, artists and drunks, unbelievable beauties, downtrodden addicts, and some of the greatest and most narcissistic people you will ever meet, all counterbalanced with the most generous, loving, hardworking, and creative people on the planet, those of us who create, inhabit, and give life to the hospitality industry.” The audiobook is especially enjoyable, with Cecchi-Azzolina narrating, putting the reader in a front-row seat with a fine eye to drama and details. He reminds readers that this was the ’80s and very much the sex, drugs, and rock and roll culture before changes in the industry were mandated.
On how he came to write the book, he says, “I’ve told stories for years to guests who come in, and when I was a manager at Le Coucou and was closing, I had a few free hours and started writing. Alan Richman, the great food writer, was my customer, and he read the pages and, after giving some notes, said, ‘You’re a writer now.’”
The memoir’s raw honesty without sugar coating — unless it is a souffle (code word for a critic is in the house) — is refreshing whether it is tales from the front of house, back of house, kitchen, behind the bar, or after-hours partying. Throw in a death threat from a mobster, a drunken guest falling into the East River, and an unusual use of butter with a supermodel guest, and the action is non-stop.
What we see in this chiaroscuro is the human need to feel valued, important, and seen with the desire for delicious food and stunning settings a close second and third. Without delving into cynicism, he says, “The majority of my guests are wonderful, and they get you through the night. You don’t give the jerks the power over you.”
For Cecchi-Azzolina, the secret to success is found in one of the job interview questions he was asked: What is more important, great food or great service?
The answer: service, always.
And for this graciously hosted dinner party where strangers gathered to support one of the most important public institutions we have not only in East Hampton but in this country, the free library, the answer is also fantastic guests.
Who knew that the next hot topic of conversation would be… libraries. Connections to libraries abounded from those of us who are card-carrying members of the local Hamptons libraries to a gentleman who served as general counsel to a large city library to our host who created his own gorgeous two-story library in his home.
Cecchi-Azzolina related his experience as a kid: “I took out books from the library, and I loved them so much I just never returned them. My mother found them and made me go back to the library, and I was in fear of the fines. But the librarian said, ‘There’s a transit strike, so we’ve waved the fines for months.’” A first bit of writerly good luck.
And in terms of restaurant gossip, Cecchi-Azzolina who spends time in Montauk, answers the question, will he open a restaurant in the Hamptons? “Sorry, no.”
