There are many reasons to visit Scotland. Perhaps you’re an avid golfer or a fan of the mythical worlds in “Outlander” or “Harry Potter.” Perhaps you’re a history buff or a literary fan of the likes of Sir Walter Scott or Robert Burns, or you may be looking to explore your own Scottish roots. The latter was just one of the reasons I’ve always wanted to visit. This winter, I embarked on a mother-daughter trip. The trip covered the south of Scotland — the Scottish Borders, and Dumfries and Galloway, and we ended our time with a night in Edinburgh.
To visit the south of Scotland is to explore where Scotland truly starts. The region offers a lush, scenic landscape, wonderful tourist destinations, and warm hospitality. It draws visitors seeking to connect with Scotland’s adventurous and creative spirit. It’s also easily accessible from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Carlisle, Newcastle, and Belfast.
Day 1
Coming from London, we were picked up at the Carlisle train station by Tom Miers of Clans & Castles Tours, our guide for the first leg of the trip. Clans & Castles offers tailored holidays featuring Scotland’s castles, culture, and clan lands. The group’s bespoke driver-led tours of Scotland are tailored to guests’ interests. Prior to the trip, we discovered that my mother’s maiden name had roots in Dumfries, an area we would explore. Tom took us off the beaten track, exploring historic ruins and castles throughout our journey.
A must-do is a private tour and tasting at Galloway Distillery, owned by Sam Heughan, the actor widely known for his role as Jamie Fraser on “Outlander” and the owner of Sassenach Spirits. He recently launched the new distillery in his hometown of Galloway, which is now home to the Sassenach brand and includes the local brand Hills & Harbor, where the Sassenach Gin is produced.
“Galloway is an inspirational place. It has unique heritage, folklore, landscapes, and people. Very accessible yet remains an undiscovered and ancient land. I created the Galloway Distillery to return to my roots and give back to the land where I was born. My purpose is to shine a light on this unsung corner of Scotland, that has so much to offer,” Heughan said. “This represents a true homecoming and new chapter, in the pursuit of fine Scottish spirits from this undiscovered and exceptional land, in the south of Scotland.”
After the fine whiskey, gin, and vodka tasting and a lesson on how the spirits are sustainably produced, head to the bonnie town of Gatehouse of Fleet. Nestled on the River Fleet, it is a quaint and picturesque “gallery town” in Dumfries and Galloway. Check into The Murray Arms, a boutique hotel where Robert Burns drafted “Scots Wha Hea.” Originally built in 1760 as a coaching inn, it’s a newly renovated boutique hotel offering cozy accommodations and delectable dining. Its prime location and historical significance make it the perfect base for exploring the south of Scotland.
Enjoy dinner at Swally n’ Scran in Kirkcudbright, which has long been a center for visual artists and is now known as “the Artists’ Town.” Swally n’ Scran offers a wonderful selection of freshly cooked seafood dishes accompanied by local spirits. Here we had one of the best smoked salmon dishes we’ve ever had, and it was at that moment I realized this is what salmon is supposed to taste like.
Day 2
Enjoy a bountiful breakfast at The Murray Arms, then spend the day with Clans & Castles Tours exploring local historical sites, including Caerlaverock Castle, a unique 13th-century moated triangular fortress, and Melrose Abbey, the resting place of the heart of Robert the Bruce.
Lunch at 1610 at the Globe Inn in Dumfries is a must on the agenda. It is a Michelin-listed restaurant where history and culinary artistry meet. Enjoy inventive dishes crafted by Chef Fraser Cameron from the finest Scottish ingredients, or try one of the 300 whiskies available.
After lunch, step into the rooms where Robert Burns once lived and entertained. Those who opt for a Burns Tour can even sit in his very chair while reciting a line from his work or view the verses he etched into the original windowpanes.
Later in the afternoon, travel to Aikwood Tower in Selkirk, heading east along winding country roads dotted with sheep and set against lush rolling hills. Aikwood Tower is a restored 16th-century tower in the Scottish Borders, rich in history. Just over an hour from Edinburgh and north of England, it’s surrounded by hills, woodland, and rivers.
Many legends surround Aikwood, including the story of Sir William Scott, a Border Reiver captured during a raid and given the choice between hanging and marrying Muckle Mou’d Meg. Sir Walter Scott, his descendant, was inspired to include Aikwood in his epic poem, “The Lay of the Last Minstrel.” Writer James Hogg also wrote about Aikwood, including the legend of Michael Scott, the Border Wizard.
In 1988, David Steel (The Lord Steel of Aikwood), a Member of Parliament representing the Scottish Borders, restored the tower as a home. Now owned by his son, Rory Steel, and his wife, Vicki, it has been transformed into a luxury holiday home with five en-suite bedrooms, each with its own unique charm. It’s an exquisite spot to immerse yourself in Scottish culture and history.
For dinner, head to the Cross Keys Inn, a pub owned by Rory and Vicki and a fixture of the community since the 1850s, serving local beer and dishes made with local ingredients. It offers a welcoming atmosphere, classic pub food, and live music. The fish & chips are not to be missed.
Day 3
Borders Elite Travel offers customized tours featuring historic castles, famous film locations, golf outings, and sporting adventures. Colin Jackson of Borders Elite Travel was our guide for the day, bringing us to Abbotsford, the residence of Sir Walter Scott, and Monteviot House for a garden tour.
“So wondrous wild, the whole might seem, the scenery of a fairy dream.” Abbotsford is the remarkable home of Sir Walter Scott, the 19th-century author and pioneer of historical fiction, known for works such as “Rob Roy,” “Ivanhoe,” and “Waverley,” as well as poems such as “The Lady of the Lake.” Scott called it his “conundrum castle,” a place where fact and fiction intertwine, fueling his creativity. Its towers and gables sparked a craze for Scots Baronial architecture, emulated at Balmoral and throughout the country.
A visit to Monteviot House offers a garden tour with head gardener Jamie Stephenson, during which you will explore the historic house and its gardens. Monteviot has served as the family estate of the Marquis of Lothian and the Kerr family for nearly four centuries. The gardens offer a stunning view set against the backdrop of the River Teviot. There are eleven themed gardens, including the Garden of Persistent Imagination, the Water Garden, the Rose Garden, and the Laburnum Tunnel.
End the day with a CedarHus Sauna Experience overlooking the River Teviot, where you can enjoy a sauna while watching the sheep graze across the river — or if you’re bolder than I am, take a cold plunge in the river prior to the sauna. CedarHus rotates locations, so be sure to visit their website to book.
In the evening, enjoy Aikwood Tower while dining on takeaway from Seasons, a restaurant that carefully sources local produce from hand-picked local suppliers as part of Slow Food Scotland.
Day 4
Take a private tour of Johnstons of Elgin, the renowned cashmere manufacturer that creates exquisite luxury products in its Scottish mills. The family business has worked with natural, renewable, biodegradable fibers since 1797. During the Mill Experience tour, you can witness the techniques skilled craftspeople have passed down through generations to make its luxurious Cashmere and Merino Wool products, and learn about the mill’s rich Scottish heritage and that of the surrounding area. The mill also includes a shop where you can purchase the finest cashmere in the world at a great value. After the tour, enjoy lunch at the cafe.
Head to Queen Mary’s House, a sixteenth-century building in Jedburgh, where Mary, Queen of Scots, stayed in 1566. The building is open to the public as a museum, where you can learn more about the life of this fascinating historical figure.
Revel in a fireside chat at Aikwood Tower with Stewart Wilson while sitting beside a roaring fire in the Great Hall. Stewart is a Scottish history buff and proprietor of Tweed Valley Blogger, an award-winning local tour guide with a wealth of knowledge. Stewart will regale you with tumultuous tales of the Border Reivers. During the late Middle Ages, Scotland and England were frequently at war, and the Borders bore the brunt of the conflict. These locals were tough and resilient, accustomed to a semi-lawless environment.
Day 5
Start the morning with a visit to Scott’s View, a viewpoint in the Scottish Borders overlooking the valley of the River Tweed, which was known as one of Sir Walter Scott’s favorite views.
Make a stop at the Great Tapestry of Scotland in Galashiels. Thousands of stitchers from across Scotland created this collaborative masterpiece, weaving together heritage, people, and landscapes into a shared story. The Great Tapestry of Scotland was envisioned by Alexander McCall Smith, inspired by the Prestonpans Tapestry.
For lunch, stop at The Mainstreet Trading Company, based in the village of St Boswells. The space doubles as a bookstore and cafe, with its Mainstreet Deli & Home in a beautiful barn behind the main shop. It’s a great stop to pick up some local goods.
In the afternoon, tour Thirlestane Castle near Lauder. The historic home of the Duke of Lauderdale is one of Scotland’s oldest and finest, still home to the Maitland family. It offers guided tours and hosts events and activities, including riding, fishing, shooting, clay-pigeon shooting, Highland Games, and archery. The castle’s 5-star rooms are decorated with antiques, artwork, and artifacts inspired by its history and surroundings. Guests can enjoy food hampers, spa treatments, and country pursuits, with options for self-catering or catering.
Travel to Edinburgh to end the trip. Gleneagles, the esteemed sporting and country estate, offers Gleneagles Townhouse, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, in St Andrew Square, which is the perfect base for exploring the country’s capital. The building, once home to the British Linen Company and later the Bank of Scotland, showcases exceptional architectural details throughout this charming sanctuary. Each room is uniquely crafted to reflect understated luxury and pay homage to the building’s heritage. The rooms are both classically charming and charismatic, offering thoughtful touches like plush robes and slippers, as well as Gleneagles Blend Origin Coffee. This Edinburgh retreat also features a members’ club, a wellness center, and Lamplighters rooftop terrace, offering breathtaking city views and finely crafted cocktails. It’s truly a “place to gather and be glorious.”
Dinner at The Spence features modern Scottish-inspired cuisine by head chef Elliot Hill, as well as innovative cocktails like the Townhouse G&T, made with Gleneagles gin. Highlights include shareable dishes such as the spiced haggis and onion fritter and the Gleneagle oak-smoked salmon with added Osetra caviar. Standout mains include a 500g Tweed Valley Chateaubriand to share, with beef dripping onion and ox cheek gravy, and skin-on fries or the halibut “cullen skink,” a thick, creamy Scottish chowder with smoked haddock, potato, and seaweed. To complete your meal, indulge in the dessert trolley with its cheese selections and petits fours. The Spence also offers all-day dining experiences, including the Spence Brunch Club and Tea on the Square.
Visit Lamplighters for a nightcap to conclude your evening. The stunning skyline views of Edinburgh’s New Town are truly worth admiring. The cocktail lounge pays homage to the historic lamplighters, known as Leeries, who manually lit gas street lamps before electricity was available. This term is famously referenced in Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1888 poem “The Lamplighter,” in which Leerie is portrayed as a magical wanderer illuminating dark city streets. Savor inventive cocktails, champagne, and premium whiskies as the sun sets and the lamps light up the night. Try the rich and nutty Midnight Matchmaker with 18 Bulleit Bourbon, Cocchi di Torino, sherry, almond, cherry, or the vibrant and herbal The Strange Case, made with Tart Tanqueray 10, Cocchi Americano, blackberry, and lemongrass.
To learn more about Dumfries and Galloway and the Scottish Borders, follow @DiscoverSouthScotland
