To travel through Northern Spain is to witness a profound departure from the typical Spanish landscape. Far from the arid plains and palm-lined boulevards of the south, the “Green Spain” of Asturias and Galicia offers a world of emerald valleys, limestone massifs, and a rugged Atlantic coastline. This route doesn’t just connect destinations, it connects sensations, moving from the sophisticated urban centers of Asturias to the wild, salt-sprayed horizons of the Galician coast.
Beyond The Landscape
The North is a getaway that goes beyond the landscape: cliffs sculpted by the sea, fishing villages rich in history, and horizons that linger in memory. Setting off from the urban centers of Asturias toward the Galician coast, every “culín” of cider tells a story of tradition, resilience, and a deep-seated connection to the land.
The Urban Soul: Oviedo & The Legacy Of Flavor
At the center of Oviedo stands the grand Cathedral of San Salvador. This 13th-century Gothic masterpiece anchors a plaza reflecting centuries of Romanesque and Baroque evolution, watched over by the contemplative sculpture of La Regenta.
The Authentic Taste Of Oviedo
To truly understand the city’s spirit, step into Sidrería Niza. Established in 1992, this cider house is a local landmark where lingering after your meal is encouraged. Dishes to try include the Fabada Asturiana. This rich, hearty stew is a national symbol of the region. Made with large white beans (fabes), chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and pork, slow-cooked with paprika, garlic, and saffron.
The Zamburiñas a la plancha include small Galician scallops, prized for their tender meat and delicate coral (roe), which are grilled simply to highlight their exquisite, sweet flavor. For siderías, visit Tierra de Astur for a traditional “espicha” (cider tasting) where the pourers demonstrate the art of el escanciado (pouring from a height) to aerate the cider.
Avilés: The Unexpected Gem
Small, atmospheric, and full of character, Avilés is a perfect blend of medieval history and futuristic flair. Centro Niemeyer is a stark, white, futuristic cultural center designed by Oscar Niemeyer — a modern counterpoint to the city’s ancient roots. A walk through the Calle Galiana and Calle de Rivero reveals stone arcades and wooden balconies, offering the city’s most photogenic spots.
La Plaza El Mercado is tucked away in a historic square. This market is encircled by houses that lean over it like balconies. It’s an ideal spot to find fresh local produce and unique handmade souvenirs.
A dining highlight is La Quinta de Avilés. Order the Arroz Caldoso con Bogavante. Far from “soupy,” this is a velvety, lobster-enriched rice dish with prawns and scallops simmered in a rich crustacean reduction. It is a masterclass in texture — luxurious, silk-smooth, and intensely oceanic.
Gijón: The Coastal Soul
Gijón is a vibrant blend of maritime heritage and urban energy. At its heart lies a nearly mile-long stretch of golden sand, a haven for surfers and swimmers that borders the historic Cimadevilla neighborhood. Running parallel to the two-mile El Muro promenade is a bustling path lined with cafes and shops, featuring the iconic Escalerona staircase.
Chapel of San Lorenzo is nestled along the Paseo del Muro. This 1668 Baroque gem is a visual delight of sandstone ashlar. Once a place of worship, it now serves as a vibrant exhibition hall, marrying Gijón’s historical architecture with its contemporary art scene.
A must-visit landmark is Elogio del Horizonte (Praise of the Horizon). Perched on the Cerro de Santa Catalina, this massive 500-ton concrete sculpture by Eduardo Chillida (1990) stands 33 feet tall. Designed as an “open ellipse,” its arms seem to embrace the Bay of Biscay. Step inside the structure to experience its unique acoustic effect: the “music of the wind” echoes the crashing Atlantic waves.
Cudillero: The Amphitheater Of The Sea
Many call Cudillero Spain’s most colorful seaside town, where vibrant houses cling to a curved, tiered cliffside that forms a natural theater overlooking the waves. It is the last place in Spain maintaining a small-scale hand-fishing industry, where fishermen use only hooks to preserve the ecosystem. For the best viewpoints, hike to La Garita or La Atalaya to see the red-tiled roofs cascading toward the Plaza de la Marina.
Tapia De Casariego: The Western Haven
Before crossing into Galicia, stop at Tapia de Casariego. Walk through its port, peek at the viewpoint of Os Cañois, or just sit back and enjoy the calm of the landscape. Its pier and beautiful promenades make it a perfect enclave for a seaside escape.
Entering Galicia: The Ribadeo Stop
As the route moves west across the bridge into Galicia, the landscape shifts into deeper greens and more jagged cliffs. In Ribadeo, visit Bar Nido de Robin, run by a warm, attentive couple, for the standout dish of the region: Pulpo a la Gallega (Pulpo a Feira) — tender octopus seasoned with high-quality olive oil, coarse sea salt, and pimentón (paprika).
The Sentinels: Lighthouses Of The North
San Agustín Lighthouse (Ortigueira) is perched on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic. This lighthouse has guided sailors since the late 19th century. From here, the horizon seems endless, with the cliffs silhouetted in the distance — a perfect spot for a quiet break to feel the deep heartbeat of the North.
Illa Pancha (Ribadeo) is a postcard-perfect island at the mouth of the Eo River featuring two distinct structures: the historic 1860 square building and the 1980s black-and-white striped tower. The viewpoint offers a unique vista of the estuary where Figueras and Castropol meet, appearing like a living painting.
The Final Cathedral: Playa de las Catedrales
The journey culminates at the Playa de las Catedrales. When the tide recedes, the sea reveals massive stone arches and sea caves sculpted by the waves — a natural cathedral that invites calm and serves as a final, unforgettable memory of the journey.
Where To Stay
In Oviedo, you can choose Exe Hotel El Magistral; in Gijón, El Moderne Hotel; in Avilés, Hotel Alda Palacio Valdés; and in Cudillero, La Casona de Pío.
Asturias In The Hamptons
For a taste of Asturias at home, visit R.AIRE at Hampton Maid in Hampton Bays to enjoy traditional cider and tapas, featuring the expert escanciado (pouring) skills of Chef Alex Bujoreanu.